Cusco to Machu Picchu

The ultimate objective for my trip to Peru was to get to Machu Picchu. Thus, Lima was just a detour before heading to Cusco, Peru and eventually Aguas Calientes via a four hour train ride on Peru Rail. All of these logistical costs were arranged and reserved prior to travel, with the exception of our actual entrance tickets to Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. These tickets, which cost about $150 each, are only purchasable either at the Ministerio de Cultura offices, located in Cusco and Aguas Calientes, or the Peruvian government website. The website at the time could not be accessed in the United States due to payment fraud and terrorist financing activities. Therefore, my sole responsibility while in Bogota was to purchase these tickets.

Traditional Peruvian clothing

About two weeks before leaving Bogota, I went onto the Peruvian government website, reserved the tickets to Machu Picchu park, as well as the tickets to Huayna Picchu, which is the large, intimidating mountain in the background of all famous Machu Picchu pictures. After reserving the tickets, there is a payment area on the website. You are required to enter your reservation code and purchase tickets within six days of your initial reservation. Just to be on the safe side, I decided to buy the tickets right after I made the reservation. I put in my code for the Macchu Picchu tickets and proceeded to enter my payment information. For Machu Picchu park entrance, including museum entrance, the cost is $152 per person (excluding museum access, the cost for a single adult entrance ticket is $150). For a pass to climb Huayna Picchu, at either 7-8am, or 10-11 am, the cost is $150 per person. Once I put in my code, I was taken to another page where it asked for my credit card information and upon entering it, I was taken to the next screen which appeared to be this confirmation. I wrote down the code. However, after a few days went buy I realized the money was never taken from my account. Therefore, as soon as we arrived in Cusco on the Monday, the 19th, we checked into our hotel called El Virrey, and inquired with our hotel clerk. She said we would have to go the the Ministerio de Cultura office, as she did not see a record attached to the confirmation number I was given. This made me very nervous because Machu Picchu park only allows 1,600 visitors per day and Huayna Picchu limits the access to 200 per time slot, which is only 400 people per day. We were leaving the next morning for Machu Picchu and still did not have tickets after many fruitful attempts.

Plaza de Armas

After leaving our hotel, we grabbed a quick bite overlooking the Plaza de Armas. We later jumped in a cab, which is very easy to do in Cusco since they are all over, and headed to the cultural center. I was helped by a clerk right when I entered and she told me that there was no reservation under my confirmation number, name, or passport despite the confirmation code I was given. She listened to my story regarding my failed attempts to buy in Colombia and got her supervisor to help. The supervisor told us that we could purchase entrance tickets to Machu Picchu park the following day (we were to arrive there around 1 PM) as the 1,600 maximum capacity  had not yet been reached. However, she stated that the Huayna Picchu tickets were at capacity for both time slots that were available. As mentioned, only 200 people are allowed in each time slot. From there, my negotiation tactics, persistence, and years of fake crying experience ensued. I showed my confirmation, explained the many difficulties we experienced, told the supervisor that we only had one day to go, sobbed about the fact we travelled from the United States with the goal of climbing Huayna Picchu, and tried many other tactics, many of which I am not going to share. She told me there was nothing they could do but that I could come back at 6 pm, before closing, to see if any of the reservations didn't come by to pick up their tickets.

Centro Artesanal Cusco

I left the cultural center feeling very deflated. I felt like I failed The Don, as he had planned every flight and hotel and my only duty was to book these tickets. We left silently, both secretly hoping that we would get lucky. From there, I spent entirely too much money buying Peruvian traditional artwork, clothing, and souvenirs at a large, indoor shopping district called Centro Artesanal Cusco that had hundreds of individual stands or stalls set up for each artist. This shopping center was the Plaza de San Blas or Plaza of Armas, where most of the touristy shops were overpriced and overpopulated. Centro Artesanal Cusco, located at the end of Avenida El Sol, across from the large painted waterfall fountain and the Hotel Savoy, is the largest indoor market of handicrafts stalls in Cusco, and many goods are slightly cheaper than they are closer to the plaza. I spent over 3 hours and an unknown amount of money buying gifts here before grabbing a cab back to the cultural center.

When we got back to the center, the woman working told me there was still time for the unreserved tickets to be purchased and asked me to sit and wait. We hesitantly sat and watched as people trickled in, praying and practically intimidating people from purchasing last few reserved yet unpaid tickets. As each second passed, I grew more and more anxious. I thought surely one of the ten or so people that came through the doors were the owners of the tickets we so desperately sought. At 6:30 pm, not a second before closing, the supervisor nodded for me to come over to her desk. She smiled as she handed me the last tickets for Huayna Picchu on the only day we were able to go. I leaped, jumped, squealed, twirled, and screamed as I ran over to the payment counter. I also gave her a small change purse that I had just purchased at the market. We were the last ones out of the office and had been on our feet the entire day. Not only did we have the airport fiasco (outlined in my last post) but the Huanya Picchu tickets added to my general belief that nothing is certain in Peru and everything can be achieved with persistence, a few fibs, fake tears, and some Spanish speaking.


We got tickets!!!



We ended our night eating Alpaca at the Inka Grill, an upscale restaurant on the Plaza de Armas. Our train was to depart Poroy, a station twenty minutes from Cusco, at 8:30 am. The ticket said that we needed to be there 30 minutes prior to departure and we were only allowed to bring a bag that weighed less than 5 kilograms, or about 10 lbs! As such, we repacked our bags into smaller backpacks, checked our suitcases, and left the hotel before 7 am to insure we got there by 8. Turns out, the Poroy station is actually only 15 minutes from Cusco (not 30-40 minutes as quoted at the Peru Rail office). Since we got there so early, we asked our cab driver if he knew where we could eat a bite before catching out train. He drove us up to a home on the side of the train station which was attached to a "restaurant". As we walked in, a pregnant very sick looking dog greeted us, along with a young mother, and her even younger daughter. They only served one dish at this restaurant. I am still not sure what it was. It appeared to be soup with a full bird floating in it. I asked if it was chicken and the young girl said no. I didn't want to offend the kind family that brought us the only item on the menu, so I decided I would put my stomach in jeopardy. However, I must say, this was exactly the type of food and restaurant that your doctor warns you about. I was almost certain I would get some form of food poisoning and/or stomach virus. The Don adamantly refused to eat and continually warned me that I would get sick. I had a few sips of the broth, and flung most of the large, foreign bird floating in it at the pregnant dog staring up at me. We left shortly there after.



Food poisoning before 8 am



Pregant pup



  

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

Jerk found food!

As soon as we arrived at the Peru Rail station, a large, modern cafe stared at us with croissants, fresh lattes, fruit, refrigerators stocked with drinks, counter tops full of snacks, and even gum. The Don found great joy in that. Jerk. Also, we noticed that 90% of the passengers had not yet arrived even though we were strictly warned to be there by 8. Lastly, as people trickled in, we realized no one else heard of the weight limitation as they pulled their gigantic suitcases behind them. Travel Tip: For any of you going to Machu Picchu on Peru Rail, you do not need to be there thirty minutes before departure, can purchase food at the train stations, and your bags do not need to be under a certain weight, as specified on the ticket.

We left the train station on time, at 8:30 am, seating in the first train (train A) in seats A7 and A8. These were great seats but the best on the entire train were A1 and A2. I am not sure if these can be reserved in advance since we were not given the option to select seats, but if you are taking the train, try to push for these seats. They were at the very front of the train, were surrounded by windows, and had a completely clear, unobstructed view of the journey. The train ride was a highlight of my trip from Cusco to Machu Picchu. Seeing the Peruvian country side from this vantage point gave me an unique view of the country, its inhabitants, and the terrain. I was also able to take a lot of pictures.

Once we began following a river between large mountains, I knew we were getting close to Aguas Calientes, the small town next to Machu Picchu, home to most of the hotels in the area, with the exception of a swanky hotel that is outside the park entrance and costs $1000/night. We arrived at 12 pm, dropped off our bags, and headed to the bus station, ready to head up to Machu Picchu park. What unfolded over the next two days in Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu were no short of life-changing and I am fairly certain I will forever be a different person because of them. My next entry will discuss in depth some of the highlights of my experience at Machu Picchu. Stay tuned....