I left my heart in Cartagena

After two very informative, busy, exciting days with the Opportunity International office, I looked forward to a couple days off in order to explore the beautiful, tropical city of Cartagena, Colombia. I spent Friday evening eating arepas in a hammock on my porch. I went to sleep early in eager anticipation of a full day in the Islas de Rosario.

Before departing my hotel on Saturday morning, I ate a banana, soaked in the warm, tropical heat, and threw on a bathing suit. I later jumped in a cab for the main boat harbor where I paid about $40 for a full day on a private boat, which carried about 15 people. This also included lunch, snorkeling, and a tour of about five islands, with the climatic final destination being the famous Playa Blanca. Our boat departed from the city's main docks, located in the Centro, at about 9 am. It was very fast and followed the coastline, allowing me an excellent view of the antique buildings and colonial ruins that border the entire city of Cartagena. I learned that Cartagena was founded in 1533 by a Spanish commander by the name of Pedro de Heredia. In the years following, as a result of the city's ideal location between the Carribean islands, South America, and North America, many pirates attacked trying to overthrow the city. As a result, during the 17th century,  the Spanish Crown hired the services of prominent European military engineers to carry out the construction of fortresses, which are nowadays one of Cartagena's clearest signs of identity. Many of these engineering works took well over 208 years to build, and ended with some eleven kilometers of walls surrounding the city (pictured below). Many of these coastal walls and colonial structures are much older than the United States.

 

Our first stop was to pick up snorkeling equipment at a small island nearby. When we pulled up, many local kids jumped in the water and swam towards our boat, seeking a few coins. I found it hysterical to see the startled faces and hear the squirms of frightened women when the young boys pull their upper bodies on our boat. In retrospect, I should have given the kids some coins for pure entertainment sake. After getting on our way, we drove for about thirty minutes before stopping in front of a few small islands. From this location, the tour guide of the boat gave us some facts about the surrounding islands, as we bought fish empanadas and fruity drinks from an elderly couple that pulled up next to us on a canoe. I must say, I respected their hustle. They must have made $100 in profits from our boat alone! From there, we docked near a coral reef on a miniature island that was less than 25 feet squared. I was the first in the water and began swimming out into the ocean before being warned that I had to wait for the others to put on their snorkeling headpieces and life jackets. I figured Colombians would be good swimmers but that was not the case. Our snorkeling guide had to pull a life-saver behind him with 10 women hanging on. I swam ahead and dove deep to the ocean floor to admire the large coral, schools of hundreds of bright blue fish, and squid swimming beside me. As I emerged, the captain of the boat asked me where I learned to swim. He was shocked when I explained that not all gringos are from the prarie and that I grew up in the ocean. The entire crew joked with him and then called me a tiger shark, as I was wearing an animal print bathing suit.

Location of snorkeling

After snorkeling for an hour, the men of the boat crafted makeshift ladders out of rope and we climbed aboard. We departed for Isla de Beru, which is also a part of the Islas de Rosario and the home of Playa Blanca. When we arrived at the beach, I leaped off the bow of the ship onto the white, soft sand. I strolled up to a set of covered tables and peacefully awaited my lunch. One of the local island men brought me fish, coconut rice, a small salad, a fried plantain, and lemonade. I must say, although it took a few weeks, I am really starting to get the hang of eating alone. After my lunch, I positioned a lounge chair in the sun, put on my headphones, and politely declined about 12 different men selling jewelry, four fruity drinks, eight fruit venders, three massages, and a couple of hair braiders. After about an hour, I finally met a nice man selling jewelry who was willing to teach me about the island he called home. I bought two bracelets from him and headed back to the spot where the boat was to picked us up. On my boat ride home, I talked to the captain for a short period of time until he told me he had four wives. I tried to think of a variation of what he was telling me but there simply was no other way to translate it. 

Playa Blanca

Watching the World Series

After returning to the dock, I jumped in a cab to my hotel, took a long shower, and decided to find a nice place to eat in Bocagrande. I am so very glad I did. After passing a few restaurants that were either packed or touristy, I stumbled upon El Carbon de Palo, an outdoor restaurant with a large patio full of live music, savory smells, and most importantly, baseball. This little gem had two large screen TVs which would be obnoxious if not for the fact they were displaying the World Series, on mute, in the background of these amazing musicians. I ordered Ceviche, lots of water, and arepas with cheese. I was in heaven. Not a second later did the singers start serenading me with a spanglish rendition of Frank Sinatra's "New York, New York". Despite the fact I have spent more time in South America than the East coast, and have only visited New York a handful of times, I appreciated their attempt to make me feel at home. It was very endearing. I spent another two hours here on this magical patio digesting, watching the Giants win game three against the Tigers (sorry Dad!), and soaking in the great conversation and music surrounding me. When I got up to leave, the owner of the restaurant followed me out to the street to hailed me a cab. I promised him I would be back and thanked him for a very memorable evening.

Rooftop pool

Soaking in the sun

Sunday morning was extremely hot. I had no other option than to take the elevator to the 20th floor and lay in a lounge chair next to the rooftop pool for three hours. I took pictures of the beautiful city surrounding me and called Jefferson to see if he'd be available for lunch later that afternoon in order to explore more of the historical centro of Cartagena.

I am between colonial Centro & modern Bocagrande

Jefferson told me to meet him at the Torre de Reloj (clock tower) at 3 pm. When I arrived, he was waiting and told me he arrived a half an hour early just to be sure that I wouldn't have to wait. I tell you - Colombians are the kindest people on the planet. From the Torre de Reloj, we walked through the historic centro, admiring the colorful buildings, artistic work displayed on the streets, children chasing birds, and colorful clothing of the Caribbean woman in various plazas. We strolled up to a bridge along the water (pictured) and Jefferson gave me a brief history of the many wars that had taken place in Cartagena. I was amazed again to see the juxtaposition of the very aged, historical architecture along the coast contrasted by the backdrop full of very modern, sleek, white buildings belonging to Bocagrande and Castillogrande. We continued our walk, which would be unbearable in the heat if not for the cool ocean breeze, discussing my past few days in Cartagena and the positive impact it had on my life. Jefferson shared that he had a son that was eleven, I told him about my sisters and their families, he shared that he was a man of the church, and I explained my devotion to the Pittsburgh Steelers.

Centro

Plaza in front of church

After walking a few blocks, we decided to eat at a small food stand that sold ceviche. I wasn't sure what Jefferson meant by a large hat until we got there, but the food was sold out of a food stand that was shaped like a Colombian hand-woven sombrero. In front of the sombrero, a family began playing music on various instruments. The drummer was a young girl that was phenomenal and couldn't have been more than 10 years old. The singer/accordion player was the father. Two younger siblings played various instruments and sang. I smiled at the young musicians as they curiously looked at me. I noticed various locals from neighboring buildings as they emerged onto their balconies and sang along with the family. I love this about Cartagena: the spontaneity, the family unity, the impromptu live music that is seemingly never-ending, the ocean breeze, the neighborhood involvement, the simplicity. I clapped when they finished along with all of the neighbors. I ate ceviche and drank a coke. I let one of the youngest girls touch my arm and pet my hair. I assume she was verifying that I was real. I do not look anything like the bronze, dark-haired, short, beautiful Costeños that are residents of Cartagena. In retrospect, this lunch was better than any fancy restaurant and it was full of happiness.

Jefferson and I in front of Iglesia de San Pedro Claver

Before leaving the historical Centro, Jefferson and I took a picture in front of the famous church Iglesia de San Pedro Claver. I gave him a hug and got a bit sad when leaving. There was something about his charming innocence, good nature, and warm heart that made me miss him before I left. Jefferson taught me a lot about how I want to treat my coworkers. He did everything with a smile and never seemed irritated or stressed. I have only met very few genuinely good people like him that made such a positive impact on my life in just three short days. I made a personal commitment to always keep in touch with Jefferson.

 

After I arrived at my hotel, I lamentably packed my bags and before leaving, I laid in the hammock one last time. I took some deep breaths to create a mental picture so that I could always remember how the sky, the warm, humid air, and the hammock felt on that beautiful evening. With every person we meet and place we travel to, we become a different person, as we leave a small part of ourselves with these people and in these locations. I know, without a doubt, Cartagena will always have a piece of my heart and I am glad the city will always live within me.